02.11.2009, 99th Days
Leon, Nicaragua
Today is public holiday here. Dia de read Muerte Day of the Dead. And Stuart's birthday.
@ Stu: Happy birthday! May all your dreams come true.
In the morning I look at the city. The cathedral is to be the largest in Central America.
For weeks I see for the first time a supermarket, which deserves its name. He belongs to a U.S. chain. In the city of all products offered, we Europeans know well. Nevertheless, it is quite clear that most people live in poverty. Horse-horse carts are as much Needless to street life such as cars, buses and small trucks.
Who has not
horse
spans
themselves
before the
cart.
The prices for food and clothing are higher than in the northern neighboring countries (Honduras, I can not say anything). It is also striking that people are not as cheerful as that here in Mexico, Guatemala and El Salvador. Only when I directly appeal, they show themselves as friendly and helpful as in the aforementioned countries. The aftermath of civil wars are here to feel even more clearly, while in Guatemala, at least dislodged and El Salvador overcome relatively dynamic.
the late afternoon I go to the cemetery. For me playing here from a strange spectacle: the families gather at the graves of their deceased. Let Kite to the spirits of the dead to show the way. They eat, drink at the grave-as I later had to acknowledge, probably predominantly alcohol, play music, sing and dance. They celebrate with their ancestors. My request to be allowed to take pictures, was friendly, but rejected determined. Too bad. After sunset, it was unpleasant to the lively streets. Unusually high number of drunken rampage in such a way that I tarry me.
01.11.2009, 98th Tag a shitty-
Leon, Nicaragua
I have such rage against Honduras in the belly that I limit myself to the presentation of facts in order not even in to my disclaimer EXPORTED be contrary to principles.
arrival at the border of El Salvador / Honduras at El Amatillo at 11:00 h. Immediately I would by a horde of wild gesticulating "Customs agents' surrounded / besieged. Only when I told them that I have with people who harass me no confidence, and with people who have no business bothering me is rest. Now they insult each other. End of the clearance at the customs of El Salvador: 12:00 h; cost: 20 cents for photocopies. 2 km drive through no man's land. Arrival at the customs in Honduras.
Today is Sunday, the Banking on the border also have-to. The border guards are 'responsive', ready to take the 'road tax' and other fees totaling approximately $ 100 against. After 2.5 h it's done. In the meantime, I am tired of pushing begging children. One of them throws Yami: windshield broken arm bent slightly and, as I see at night, the broken headlight bulb.
With
tape
from
board
workshop
the
disc
again
functional
efficient.
Two Berlin invite me to his house to comfort to Panama, where they have emigrated. 14:30 Continue by Honduras to the border with Nicaragua Guasaule (130 km). In the area of the border I was controlled for 3 times. 2 times you want more money. I do not understand English, after every 5 minutes I can then charge more. After about an hour: police check. I would have no safety alert here (have I yet, but that does not interest): $ 20 U.S.. 16:00 h: Arrival at the border with Nicaragua in hefty downpour. The release is here soon. After only 30 minutes, and the payment of another 75, - $ U.S. I have my papers. Fortunately, the now falls out of the current and thus the computer system. Because of heavy rain can / will I not still on. Here, too, begging children. Particularly bad about the mesh of a 9-year-old girl. It stabilizes to me and says: "Amigo, I love you, please give me a dollar." The behavior of some young women got me thinking. Meanwhile, it rains inside the building. Because I wonder what the State Honduras with the way Customs does-the roads are just as dilapidated as the buildings, I photograph the leaking ceiling.
One of the 'customs workers' noted that appeals to me. He says:.. "I was 11 years in the U.S. until they have me there kicked past 7 years I'm back in Honduras, because otherwise I can not find work, I am every day at the border and endeavoring to earn some money. Today, I had no clients. I know why you have the cover photograph. You walk into your home and show this And that's good. This happened at all. I do not know where the revenue flow of border traffic would have to. The buildings be renewed, but nothing happened. On the contrary, these women Here are all prostitutes, even the children here. And all the traffic in drugs, and officials cooperate. "End of quote. At 17:00 H can the rain for something. Fleeced After a total of 6 hours, including 4.5 hours on the border, and just under $ 200, I leave this country. Whether / where it has its good sides, could not determine me.
Nicaragua receives me in the rain. Here will be $ 30 for fees and vehicle insurance, but do not see because of the rain my bike. At 17 : 30h I'm back on the road is dark now, I realize that my main light does not burn Does not matter, most go without light power but 'what I see Namely not hang my other vehicles I have..... out of cash but hungry. The tank is empty. are ATM machines and hotels accept credit cards it only in Leon, slack 100 km in the country. Voila, here I am.
speedometer: 29,180 km route today: 470km distance, total: 19,120 km
31.10.2009, 97th Days
Zacatecoluca, El Salvador, Pacific
The border with El Salvador is to reach Antigua in about 2 hours. On the mountainous route there has twice been a motorcycle rider crash (not me). When set margins / accidents, people-instead of a warning triangle Aeste auf die Fahrbahn.
Grenzstation Ciudad Pedro de Alvarado. Buntes Markttreiben auch hier, ploetzlich bist du mitten in der Zollstation. Die Ausreise war innerhalb von 20 min. erledigt. Die Einreise ging fast genauso schnell, nach schon 2 Stunden durfte ich weiterfahren. 3 kanadische Paare mit ihren Kawasaki-Enduros waren da noch nicht einmal an der Reihe. Die hatten sich schon auf eine Uebernachtung in der Grenzstation eingerichtet. Wie ich etwas spaeter bei der Durchfahrt der Ortschaften und am Verhalten der Menschen hier merkte, sind die Salvatorianer so etwas wie die Preussen Zentralamerikas. Fleissig und -wie an der Grenze zu spüren- seeeeehr ordentlich; dort hat sich Ordnung und Fleiss allerdings ausgeschlossen. Ob das wirklich in der ganzen Welt so is?
Sturgis Because of the rain I was in San Rafael in a car, hotel (motel). You ask me if I'm alone (you can see it) and how long will I stay: One night. "Hasta manana (until tomorrow morning?) Was in the room to me the purpose of the questioning clear?. I had landed in a hour hotel beautiful, with large mirrors on the ceiling and the wall safe side, I have yet again to the checkout.. time required
speedometer. 28,710 km route today: 380km route, total: 18,710 km
30/10/1009, 96 days
Antigua , Guatemala
order to be allowed to drive a light pack to Rio Dulce, I dumped my yellow panniers with my host family had to come back. Here I see Jean, a young Frenchman, again, whom I had met at the hostel in Guatalajara, Mexico. I just wonder when I Toni and Leo, 2 Surf-Freaks-flying but actually with their surf boards on buses across the country from Belgium-see again. You also want at least to Panama. Richard of Queensland, Australia is traveling with his Suzuki Vstrom also to Ushuaia. He wants to stay another 4 days here, gives me his email address, just in case.
speedometer: 28,330 km route Today: 340km distance, total: 18,330 km
29.10.2009, 95th Days
Rio Dulce, Guatemala
Today was a day trip in the boat to Livingston announced. The Rio Dulce Itzabal connects the lake with the Atlantic. Sometimes it winds through 30 m high rock, thus forming an effective barrier for storm surges.
Zwischen dieser Barriere und dem See haben sich Fischer ein paradiesisch anmutendes Refugium geschaffen.
I try a green coconut. Tastes good, and the brown taste better to me.
Blauer Himmel, feuchtwarmes Klima und das entspannt aussehende Verhalten der Menschen hier, die Reggaeklaenge aus den Geschaeften, die Duefte, all das bestaetigt mein Vorurteil ueber das caribische 'easy going'-Leben.
Im Ort
Outside
For the first time I see a large proportion of the population of black African descent. They speak English, but still with afrikanischem Slang. Sie bewegen sich genauso bedaechtig wie die Indogenos oder Mestizen, aber der Bewegungsablauf ist typisch afrikanisch. Sie haben ihre Wurzeln noch nicht verloren. Polo spricht mich an. Er war als Percussionist mit einer Garifundi-Band in New York, in Heidelberg, Mannheim und Freiburg. Jetzt verteilt er Werbezettel an Touristen. Er nimmt mich mit in sein 'Viertel'. Die schwarze Bevoelkerung, erzaehlt er, werde von der braunen unterdrueckt. Sie haetten keine Rechte, seien noch aermer als die Braunen. Zumindest das letzte kann ich bestaetigen. Die Lebensumstaende sind unbeschreiblich aermlich. Die Huetten stehen auf der Wiese, Strassen und Wege gibt es nicht.
The pets, including pigs, live with the people in the house or walk around freely between the huts. I welcome all people-friendly, curious. Polo told them proud of who he has since picked up. The reaction of most is clear: The guy spins.
For lunch I try Tapago, a soup of all, for all its sea: fish, crabs, snails, clams, crabs, black vultures, what else. The critters are unpalatable, then boiled they are. But the soup is delicious. As a digestif's Guifiti. This is coconut rum with pickled roots, gentian tastes like, well supposed to be for the stomach, and the love life at all. Harm has nothing.
'm From Garifundimusik I unfortunately mitgekriegt anything, the musicians were not in the mood today. Not enough tourists. Polo told me 'ne CD sold.
28.10.2009, 94th Days
Rio Dulce, Guatemala
The town is on the same river that is fed from Lake Itzabal and flows into the Atlantic. A small, produced for the tourists back to the Fort Constriction between the lake and river
was in the 16th Century the town protect against pirates, was probably nothing. The energy of the pirates was obviously larger than that of the defender. Very may not have been large, the resistance, as can be seen easily from the population-mostly little nice-with the blood of several races and nations. The other part of the audience consists of 'yachties'. White retired from the U.S. or Canada usually on the go with their boats in the Caribic, or not. Less handsome.
speedometer: 27,990 km route today: 540 km distance, total: 17,990 km
27.10.2009, 93rd Days
Antigua, Guatemala
No School. For the first Times during the day I walk through the city
appliances and a Catholic procession.
The music reminds me of a mixture of New Orleans blues and Mayan music.
A Mayan musicians accompany the procession on its Article
Auch Antigua is a UNESCO world heritage. The price of this interference: The fahrwerkzerstoerenden maintained paved streets have to. Even pedestrians stocknuechterne stagger around here as drunk.
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